Guide to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France
Situated in the heart of the Alpilles Natural Park, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a highlight of the Provençal region. The town is framed by a backdrop of pin straight cypress trees, rugged olive groves and jagged limestone mountain peaks – the same iconic scenes depicted in several Van Gogh paintings.
Meander through the ancient town gates – along jasmine-scented alleyways, to discover museums hidden behind the pastel-painted doors of Renaissance buildings. Browse chic boutiques and speciality shops or break for an alfresco lunch in a square framed by centuries-old plane trees.
Spend your days hiking or biking in the foothills of the Alpilles or meander along the Van Gogh route to capture photos of the landscapes that inspired his greatest works.
If you love learning about local history, remnants of the Roman city of Glanum can be explored nearby, and Arles, Avignon and the Luberon are all within a short drive or bus ride.
A Brief History of St Remy
Saint-Remy-de-Provence was once known as Glanum – a settlement founded by the Celts, then reimagined under Roman rule. Under Roman influence it flourished, becoming a major trading post, thanks to its strategic position along the Roman road.
It didn’t take long for Glanum to grow in status. The Romans built triumphal arches, thermal baths, columned courtyards and laid intricate mosaics in residences. In fact, Glanum continued to thrive for many years, until the Roman Empire weakened, and the city was destroyed by the Barbarians.
Many centuries later, Saint-Remy (named after a Reims bishop), began to attract writers and artists. They were captivated by the town’s charm and idyllic surroundings. One such artist was Vincent Van Gogh. He lived in and around St Remy along with fellow artist Paul Gaugin. However, many of his works were misunderstood in the public arena, which was a major source of frustration for him.
He spent many days in Saint-Paul-de-Mausole nearby, continuing to use his love for art as medicine for his afflictions. It is here that he painted over 150 of his most famous works including “The Starry Night”, inspired by the memory of an evening street scene in the town of St Remy.
Getting to St Remy
Marseille Provence Aeroport is the nearest large airport to St Remy, and the easiest way to reach the town is by car or taxi. If you’re driving, the quickest route is along the A7 towards Cavaillon, where you’ll join the D99 to St Remy. Taxis are also available, albeit quite expensive at €100-130 for a single journey. There are no train stations in St-Remy-de-Provence.
If you’re travelling by train into Avignon from elsewhere in France, you can hop aboard the 707 bus to St. Remy (€3) or order an Uber or Lyft for around €50-60. If travelling by car, it’s just a 30-minute drive from Avignon.
Staying in Arles and fancy spending the day in St Remy? The 704 bus departs from Place Lucien Martin, taking around an hour. For drivers, it’s an easy 30-40 min drive. Taxis/Uber and Lyft services cost approximately €55-70 one way.
Things to do in St Remy
If you’re spending a few days, a week, or longer in St-Remy-de-Provence, here are the best activities and attractions to visit during your stay.
St Rémy Markets
St Rémy hosts one of the most popular markets in Provence, and it’s held every week on a Wednesday morning. Peruse rows of stalls, inhaling the aromas of ripe tomatoes, apricots, garlic and freshly picked lavender. Pick up a bunch of cheerful sunflowers for your apartment or shop for linen clothing – the ideal apparel for warm summer days in the South of France.
Local delicacies include seasonal truffles, olive oil from the foothills of the Alpilles, chewy nougat and wines produced at family run vineyards nearby. This Provençal market is also a great place to shop for colourful ceramics, lavender-scented soaps, handcrafted jewellery, or kitchen accessories made from olive wood.
The weekly market has a vibrant atmosphere, with plenty of cafes nearby when you need a break from browsing. Do note that market days are the busiest day to visit St Remy. So if making a day trip to St Remy, arrive early to beat the crowds at the market, then spend the rest of the day exploring the town at leisure.
Visit Glanum
The impressive archaeological site of Glanum is set amid lush woodland in the Alpilles foothills. It is all that remains of the ancient Roman city – a wealthy trading post during the time of Gaul.
The well-preserved site gives insight into what life was like thousands of years ago, while showcasing impressive feats of Roman engineering. Weaving between columns, mosaics and Hellenic-style residences, you begin to appreciate the stonemasonry and craftsmanship of the time.
See the dam and aqueduct the Romans built to supply the town with water. Visit the Jules Mausoleum and the Triumphal Arch – known collectively as ‘Les Antiques’. Take a tour, or navigate the site solo, then sit on the grass and feel the energies of this once-powerful Roman city.
Hit the Shops
If you’re partial to a spot of retail therapy, you’ll adore St-Remy-de-Provence. Along narrow streets with shuttered houses, beautiful boutiques beckon – you’ll have trouble sticking to your holiday budget!
There are incredible clothing boutiques like Mademoiselle Hortense and Fiona Showroom. Fiona sketches, designs and creates her hand-sewn capsule collections – so you won’t find these pieces back home!
Much loved Provence brand Souleiado has not one but two stores in St Remy – one in the heart of the old town, and a summer pop up in the courtyard of the former Hôtel des Antiques, opposite the tourist office.
You can shop for locally made ceramics in Terre é Provence or for gourmet groceries in L’epicerie Calanquet or Maison Bremond 1830. Try the sundaes at RAVI Glacés de Provence and sample cheese at La Cave aux Fromages.
Also, don’t leave without visiting Joel Durand – St Remy’s master chocolatier. His boutique is a delight to visit for the aromas alone. He infuses chocolates with local flavours like lavender and rosemary and you can try out the latest creations.
Walk the Van Gogh Route
A highlight for many art lovers aside from browsing the fabulous art galleries of St-Remy-de-Provence, is to walk the Van Gogh route. This scenic trail allows you to see the town through the eyes of the Post-Impressionist artist.
You’ll recognise the scenes depicted in his most famous paintings and have opportunities to capture the visuals that became his inspiration. The free walking route begins at the Estrine Museum, inviting you to follow a trail to 19 markers, each decorated with reproductions of his artwork.
On the walk, you’ll see the familiar cypress trees, olive groves and Boulevard Mirabeau which inspired many of his works. The route concludes at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, the former monastery turned asylum into which he admitted himself. It is here that he created many of his most popular works.
Go Museum Hopping
Enjoy a change of pace and spend a day museum hopping in and around St Remy. The town has dozens of interesting museums ranging from open-air archaeological sites like Glanum, mentioned above, to museums dedicated to the history of les Alpilles.
A few favourites to visit include Musée Estrine, paying homage to Van Gogh and other contemporary artists, or there’s 13th century Notre Dame de Pitie Chapelle which also houses a remarkable collection of portraits and paintings.
Visit the family-friendly Museum of the Alpilles and learn about the local area. The exhibits range from geology, minerals and local crafts to traditional costumes and furniture.
You could also take a Nostradamus tour. The prophetic French seer was born in St-Remy-de-Provence in the early 1500s. The tour offers visitors a glimpse into his home and life.
Visit the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole
Located next to Glanum, the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole is tucked away in a peaceful corner of Saint-Rémy de Provence. The former mental asylum was home to Vincent Van Gogh for a brief period in the late 19th century, after he notoriously cut off his own ear. Some of the artist’s most famous paintings were produced during his stay, including Starry Night, The Irises, and the Olive Orchard among others.
Today, the monastery is part museum, part a working health institution, where patients can use art as a means of therapy. You can visit the area where Van Gogh was once housed, which has been staged to represent how it would have been at the time of his stay. Wander the gardens, visit the Romanesque cloister with its beautiful flower beds, and learn about the varied history of the space.
Hiking around Lac de Peïrou
One of the best hikes near St Remy is the five-kilometre loop trail around Lac de Peïrou. The lake was formed by a dam created in the late 1800s to feed the town’s fountains.
It’s a wonderful place to spot endemic flora and fauna and gain views of the lake and mountains from a unique perspective. The trail can be challenging for younger children and dogs as the path is uneven in places, but there are shorter trails which are more suitable.
Along the route, you’ll pass the Glanum archaeological site, and see Mas de Gros and grotto caves. If spending a day in the great outdoors away from crowds sounds appealing, don your hiking boots, follow the trail and head for the lakeside with a picnic, then sit back and marvel at the wonders of nature.
Best Places to Eat in St Remy
St Remy is blessed with many places to eat catering to a range of budgets and tastes. From family-friendly cafes and pizzerias to award-winning romantic restaurants, patisseries and authentic bar-tabacs, here are a few places to check out during your stay.
Da Peppe
Families may enjoy Da Peppe pizzeria with lively terrace dining and music in summer. Located near Saint-Martin church, this restaurant focuses on Italian cuisine – promising wood-fired pizzas, delicate pasta dishes and Mediterranean barbecue fare. If you’re self-catering, they also do take-out. Don’t forget to try their mouthwatering desserts.
Le Chateau des Alpilles
At the end of a driveway punctuated by centuries-old trees, you’ll find Le Chateau des Alpilles. A resplendent hotel with stately interiors, wall tapestries, roaring fireplaces and delightful dining experiences. The menu focuses primarily on flavours of southern France with an array of seasonal dishes to tempt your culinary palate. Dine in The Manor – a grand dining room – or on warm summer days enjoy a relaxing lunch by the pool.
L’Auberge de Saint-Rémy
L’Auberge restaurant in St Remy is a delight for all of the senses. Indeed, the setting is as equisite as the art on your dinner plate. Set menus take away any indecision at dinner time, and you can be assured of the freshest flavours – with produce picked straight from the farmer’s market every morning. Their dedication to serving the finest food has awarded them a Michelin Star. So don’t miss this experience!
Other things to do Around St Remy
Within a short drive, bus or bike ride from St Remy, you’ll discover interesting towns and cities ideal for a day trip.
Les Baux de Provence
On a hilltop overlooking the countryside is the beautiful village of Les Baux-de-Provence. Wander the streets, observe ancient cathedral and castle ruins, step inside speciality shops or photograph 12th century Eglise St Vincent.
While there, visit Carrières des Lumières, slightly beneath the village, in which a former quarry has been converted into the stage for a remarkable attraction. The portraits and works of great painters and luminaries are digitally projected upon the limestone walls as part of a spectacular interactive light show set to music. The theme changes every year, so you can visit more than once!
Tarascon
Tarascon stands between Arles and Avignon on the banks of the Rhône – its crowning glory, a magnificent riverside 15th-century château. Explore the castle, decorated with ornate tapestries and royal apartments and learn about its time spent as a prison.
Take a walk to the Church of St Marta or the Cloister of the Cordeliers, breaking for coffee or lunch in one of the town’s pretty squares en route. Visit Tarascon on Friday mornings to pick up organic produce at the market, followed by a leisurely riverside walk.
Eygalières
Eygalières is understated – a village with a laid-back elegance that uniquely sums up Provence. The surrounding area is a popular spot with cyclists, as many trails pass scenic vineyards and olive groves. The village is known as “a place that collects water” and has long been viewed as a place for healing.
Every Easter locals make their pilgrimage to Chapel Saint Sixte to ask for blessings to ward off the water. Make your way to Chapelle des Pénitents for the best views or to old Saint-Laurent Church. There are a few places to eat in the village with Chez Paulette and Bistro L’Aubergine being local favourites.
Once a month, on the last Sunday, the small village plays host to one of the most popular antiques markets in the region. It’s a lively and fun time to visit, especially in the summer months.
Avignon
Avignon, just 30 minutes from St Remy, is known as the City of the Popes. Like Glanum, it was once an important trading centre, but more importantly, it was chosen as the Papal residency.
On a day trip, explore the UNESCO World Heritage Papal Palace, medieval Saint- Bénézet bridge and the cathedral of Notre-Dame-des-Doms dating back the 12th century. When you’ve exhausted the history, venture into Les Halles or find a shady spot outside a café and enjoy the ambience of the old town centre.
Arles
Walking around Arles is akin to stepping into an open-air museum. On a day trip, discover the famous Les Arènes d’Arles – a Roman amphitheatre, see the 1st-century Théâtre Antique and marvel at the stone masonry of UNESCO-listed necropolis Les Alyscamps.
In addition, you can follow the Van Gogh trail in Arles, admire contemporary art in museums and galleries, and explore markets, cloisters and boutiques before sitting down to a delicious alfresco dinner beneath the stars.
St-Remy-de-Provence has something for everyone. A charming town with hiking, biking trails and unspoilt countryside on its doorstep. The cuisine is fresh, locally grown and seasonal, and the markets are lively and fun to visit. With historic sites, museums, great shopping and art to discover, St Remy is a superb place to visit at any time of the year.
