Visiting Portofino | The Italian Riviera’s Crown Jewel
Pastel houses cluster on the green hillside and yachts bob in the sparkling harbour, creating Portofino’s postcard scene. The charming cobblestone streets exude old-world glamour, competing for attention with show-stopping ocean views.
Though there’s plenty to do in and around this petite Italian Riviera paradise, it’s hard to resist the temptation of lazy afternoons savouring seafood and simply soaking up the alluring vibes.
After a few helpings of trofie al pesto (pasta slathered in the famous Genovese basil sauce), get moving again on coastal walks or kayak to hidden coves. Or lose yourself in art, architecture and history in charming piazzas and aristocratic villas.
Top it all off with splurging on luxury accommodation, shopping and sipping Ligurian wine to celebrate an unforgettable trip to Portofino.
A Brief History of Portofino
No doubt you’ve ‘oohed and ahhed’ over Portofino in movies such as The Wolf of Wall Street, and Old Hollywood loved it too. Richard Burton proposed to Elizabeth Taylor at the Splendido Hotel, where the executive chef created the dish, Spaghetti alla Elizabeth Taylor.
Before the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Grace Kelly and Kylie Minogue succumbed to Portofino’s spell as regular visitors, British aristocrats started the influx of the rich and famous in the 1850s.
But the former fishing village boasts a history that stems from the Roman era, when it was known as Portus Delphini. It’s believed that the Church of San Giorgio holds the relics of St. George (England’s patron saint), brought by the Crusaders from the Holy Lands.
Then, there’s the magnificent Castello Brown dating back to 1425, where reconstructed walls whisper tales of sieges and naval wars. Though its glamorous reputation is cloaked in stories of movie stars, Portofino offers much more than a pretty face when you step back in time.
Getting to Portofino
Fly into the closest airport, Genoa City Airport, for the quickest transfer (around an hour) by bus, train, taxi or hire car to Portofino. You’ll hop off the train in Santa Margherita Ligure, where regular bus and taxi connections will take you the rest of the way in about 15 minutes.
Portofino itself is mainly a glorious car-free zone. But, if you’re willing to pay and battle for parks, you’ll find car parking buildings inside the small village (be aware that parking is narrow – so don’t bring your SUV!), along with hotels that provide parking for guests. The main road to Portofino is scenic but can be busy in the summer months, sometimes leading to long delays.
Alternatively, catch the sea breeze with trips on the seasonal ferries from Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo and the Cinque Terre. Day trippers can also visit Portofino as part of a tour across the region. There are plenty to choose from, search them here.
Things to do in Portofino
Don’t expect to put your camera down when you’re exploring Portofino. There’s a cinematic scene around every corner in this seaside village, and something to do for everyone.
Bask and Bathe at Paraggi Beach
It’s easy to drop your bags and hit the beach in Portofino. In fact, it’s irresistible with the turquoise water of Paraggi Beach framed by pine trees and soaking in the Mediterranean sun. You’ll reach the sandy wedge via a lovely stroll from the harbour, but you’ll have to arrive early to nab a sunbed at a private beach club in summer.
Otherwise, simply sink into the blue-green shallows to float with beautiful views of tree-dotted cliffs and magnificent villas. If you love snorkelling, an underwater adventure here is a must. Step out of the sea and straight into restaurants and bars to savour the view with gourmet bites.
People Watch in Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta
Be on the lookout for celebrities at the heart of Portofino, where your gaze drifts from luxury yachts to historical landmarks and ritzy boutiques filled with tempting goodies. The atmospheric main square is a hub of chic cafes for espresso, and sunny restaurant terraces are perfect for lazy afternoons taking it all in.
Fill your shopping bags with famous brand names and souvenirs, then swan around some art galleries.
When it’s time to put the wallet away, take a leisurely stroll along the waterfront promenade. If you don’t spot a famous face disembarking from a luxury vessel, rest assured that the postcard-perfect views make up for it.
Admire Churches
With a bright yellow façade and a panoramic cliff position overlooking the harbour, the petite Church of San Giorgio is a popular spot for weddings (there was one taking place the early Autumn day I was there) and spectacular views.
Reconstructed across the centuries, the first Romanesque structure dates back to 1154. Pop inside to see black and white checkered floors and religious art.
But for a truly dazzling church interior, spend some time inside Chiesa del Divo Martino. The striped façade is adorable but deceiving. From marble columns to stunning frescoes and vaulted ceilings, lavish decorations join interesting art depicting the lives of saints. The peaceful sanctuary is just a stone’s throw from the bustling piazza.
Launch into Water Sports
Cruise along the cliffs exploring hidden coves on group boat tours or indulge in the luxury of private vessels for chilled champagne and canapés at sunset.
Life revolves around the sea in Portofino, and you’ll find plenty of options to make the most of it. If you’re adding day trips to the itinerary, taxi boats and ferries add to the thrill.
For outdoor adventurers of all ages and skill levels, paddling around Portofino Bay in a kayak is hard to beat. Join a tour to discover sea caves and snorkelling spots, spotting seabirds and dolphins along the way.
As the bay is calm and sheltered, it’s also a popular spot for stand-up paddleboarding tours with instructors to get you up and going if you’re a beginner.
Explore Underwater Worlds
Often overshadowed by glamorous pursuits in the village, the Portofino Marine Reserve is a dazzling natural beauty for snorkellers and divers. The park was established in 1999 and brims with snapper, grouper, damselfish and starfish. You’ll discover more than 20 dive sites, from reefs and walls to spectacular seagrass meadows. Don’t miss Carega Shoal for an onslaught of barracuda.
Among the natural wonders is a manmade treat, the Christ of the Abyss statue. Designed by sculptor Guido Galletti, the bronze depiction of Christ is over two metres tall with outstretched arms.
If you love wreck dives, you’re in luck with German ships sunk during WWII and the Mohawk Deer cargo ship. Dive centres offer tours for experienced divers and courses for beginners.
Photograph Faro di Portofino
You can’t miss the Portofino lighthouse, and the scenic walk to get up close is worth repeating. The bright white landmark was built in 1917 and rests dramatically on the rocky promontory. Of course, epic ocean panoramas abound, so it’s a photographer’s dream to stroll around the pathways capturing breathtaking angles.
Take some picnic snacks with you to settle in with the views or sip limoncello and cocktails at the bar. If it’s time for a swim, head to tiny Olivetta Beach nearby with your snorkelling gear to discover a seabed swarming with marine life.
Catch a Boat to San Fruttuoso
It takes an hour or two to hike through Portofino Park to San Fruttuoso. Or, you can arrive via boat trip and sip a glass of wine with your first sight of the lush green hills dominated by an ancient Benedictine monastery. Book tours online, or simply head to the port to book your spot.
Just off the coast, it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the sunken Christ of the Abyss statue through the crystal-clear water.
Reachable only by foot or sea, the dreamy village also features a smattering of colourful, crumbling fishermen’s houses, a pebbly beach and a quaint church overlooked by the 16th-century Doria Tower.
Take a dip right at the foot of the monastery, where the martyr St Fructuoso is said to have founded a church in the 8th century. Rebuilt as a Benedictine monastery in the 10th century and modified by the Doria family from the 13th century, it’s open to visitors almost year-round.
Stroll around Castello Brown
Take your time ambling up to Castello Brown through lush greenery from the Church of San Giorgio. Once there, indulge in more Mediterranean meandering with colourful flower beds and rose gardens joining a terrace with views worthy of marriage proposals.
The Brown Castle was built by the Genoese in the Middle Ages, and served as a fortress. Several transformations over the centuries resulted in a residential residence that’s now used for events and weddings.
Inside, discover an opulent world of Gothic windows and picture galleries of famous visitors including Winston Churchill and Walt Disney. Admire a miniature model of Portofino, priceless furniture and a marble bas-relief dating from around the 11th century.
Delve into Art and Gardens
No matter where you look in Portofino, you’ll see a watercolour come to life, complete with enchanting bougainvillaea. At Museo del Parco, quirky statues dot charming garden pathways with water views along the way.
You’ll find plenty of arts and crafts to buy around the piazza. And for serious collectors, Galleria D’Arte Portofino features work from renowned contemporary Italian sculptors and painters.
Enter a wonderland of lavish Italian gardens at Villa Durazzo in Santa Margherita Ligure. The 15th-century mansion complex is a fragrant haven of lemon trees and roses, with shady holm oaks, pine and palm trees.
Marvel at fountains and statues as you stroll along the winding paths to a magnificent terrace. Then, visit the Apartments on the Piano Nobile inside the villa to see works by Domenico Piola, Luciano Borzone, Giovanni Andrea De Ferrari and more.
Hike in Portofino Nature Park
Pack your comfy walking shoes for idyllic hikes along the Ligurian coast. Around 80 kilometres of marked trails crisscross the park, protected since 1935 and adorned with awe-inspiring scenery. Whether you’re in the mood for a quick stroll or a challenging trek, take your pick of a variety of walks to suit everyone.
Trails connect Portofino with Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli and San Fruttuoso, but it’s just as fun to get happily lost in nature with surprises at every turn (information boards ensure you don’t get too lost).
Expect to stumble across hidden coves and olive groves, with steep cliffs for panoramas and dense woodlands ringing with birdsong. Keep your eyes peeled for ancient fortifications, rare plants and wildlife. If you’d rather take a guided walk, the park offers excursions with environmental hiking guides.
Drink and Dine
Everyone’s a foodie on holidays to Portofino, but true gourmands find heaven. Fresh, simple ingredients characterise Ligurian cuisine, and the bold flavours are endlessly tempting. Tuck into minestrone alla Genovese, then whole sea bass with a salty crust, and clink your glasses of crisp, white Vermentino from local vineyards.
Head to the piazza and harbour at aperitif time to choose a scenic perch in the company of sunset. If you’re in a pasta coma, there’s no need to move as night falls and the atmosphere buzzes. However, if your dancing shoes are itching for a big night out, Paraggi Beach hosts the glamorous club scene.
Other Places to Visit Near Portofino
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to day trips from Portofino, with ferries and speed boats to Cinque Terre and guided trips to farms and vineyards. But if you want to spend more time savouring the sights than getting there, gorgeous towns are on Portofino’s doorstep.
Santa Margherita Ligure
Hop on a quick bus or ferry ride to Santa Margherita Ligure. Otherwise, make the most of the scenery with a walk from Portofino of about an hour. The coastal town is a majestic vision of grand, pastel mansions and elegant hotels along a seaside promenade. The yachting crowd loves it here, too, but the easy-going vibe of locals going about their day overrides the glamour.
Beautiful displays of history, including Villa Durazzo, deserve leisurely hours of exploration. Pop inside the baroque basilica in the heart of town to admire chandeliers and elaborate frescoes. San Giacomo di Corte Church also boasts a sumptuous interior with postcard bay views.
Shop at the daily markets, take a tour of Cervara Abbey and see the turrets of Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure. And it’s always a good time for an ice-cold Peroni at beach clubs and restaurants.
Camogli
Camogli is a working fishing hub that’s a favourite of artists. On a backdrop of olive groves, tall colourful villas and terraced streets winding down to the Ligurian sea, this is the perfect place for delightful aimless wandering. You’ll stumble upon trompe l’oeil paintings, creating the illusion of elaborate windows and balustrades on houses.
See the ruins of the 13th-century Castello della Dragone and photograph the yellow Church of Santa Maria Assunta by the beach. At the Maritime Museum, learn about the town’s seafaring history.
When hunger strikes, it’s a must to try Focaccia di Recco made with creamy regional Stracchino cheese. Board a train from Santa Margherita Ligure station for a 10-minute trip to Camogli, drive in about 30 minutes from Portofino or catch a ferry.
Where to Stay in Portofino
Choosing to stay in Portofino usually means booking well in advance – especially if visiting in the peak summer season – as accommodations are limited in this tiny town. Check out our recommendations below and be prepared for the wow factor!
Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel, is THE place to stay when visiting Portofino. The 5-star property boasts incredible harbour views, marble bathtubs, and private balconies to live out your Italian Riviera dreams.
If you’d rather retreat to a quieter clime after a day’s exploration, book yourself a stay at Agriturismo Terre Rosse Portofino where you can feast on the property’s home-grown honey and olive oil, go hiking directly in the Portofino Natural Park, and appreciate the expansive coastal views.
Those travelling with friends or family will appreciate the space on offer at Clara’s House. This 4-bedroom apartment is right on the harbour in Portofino and features a private terrace, incredible views, and air-conditioning.
Portofino is an idyllic destination for luxury leisure time, whether you’re dining, swimming, strolling or shopping. You could see the village’s main attractions on a day trip, though most return to linger longer and soak up the relaxed atmosphere that’s captivated people across centuries.
For hikers, divers, history buffs and foodies, the region serves up almost endless adventures. Settle in for a while and the experience of la dolce vita is guaranteed.
